Galchi Jorim

Hairtail (galchi, Trichiurus lepturus) is a long, ribbon-shaped, scaleless fish with a bright silver body. Its name is usually traced to kal, "knife," for its blade-like shape, and the Encyclopedia of Korean Culture notes that people in the old Silla area say galchi while others say kalchi. Earlier names include gundaeeo ("skirt-ribbon fish") in Jasan eobo.

Galchi is caught around much of the peninsula, but especially in the southwestern seas. It has long been an inexpensive, abundant fish: a nineteenth-century source quoted by the encyclopedia says salted, dried hairtail was sent to Seoul and was both tasty and cheap. It is eaten mostly grilled or braised, and in Gyeongsang it also goes into soup.

Jeju has made braised hairtail one of its signature dishes. Jeju's eungalchi, "silver hairtail," is caught at night by hook and line under bright lamps, which keeps its silvery skin intact; the autumn catch is considered the best. Braised with thick slices of radish in a soy and chili sauce, it is one of the dishes visitors most associate with the island.

• Hairtail is a good source of protein, and a serving of the braise provides a substantial share of a day's protein needs.
• The radish, onion and chilies add fiber, potassium and some vitamin C.
• Braising uses no added frying oil, keeping the dish moderate in fat for a fish dish.

• Jeju silver hairtail: line-caught eungalchi from Jeju is prized for its intact silver skin; besides braising, Jeju cooks make galchi-guk, a clear hairtail soup with pumpkin or napa cabbage, as well as grilled and raw preparations.
• Mokpo "black" hairtail: hairtail caught by net off Mokpo in South Jeolla loses much of its silver coating and looks darker, so it is sold as meokgalchi; it is braised in much the same way.
• Add-ins: radish is standard, usually with onion and green and red chilies; the sauce is built on soy sauce and gochugaru.