Perilla Seed Powder

Perilla (Perilla frutescens) is grown across Korea for both its leaves and its small seeds. The Encyclopedia of Korean Culture notes that the seeds are roasted and ground to use as a seasoning or pressed for oil, which was once burned in lamps as well as used for cooking. Korea's agrifood information service lists October as the seed harvest and Gapyeong, Yangpyeong, Chuncheon, Wonju and Hongcheon among the growing areas.

Deulkkae-garu comes in two styles: whole-seed powder, darker and more rustic, including the husks, and hulled powder (geopi deulkkae-garu), paler, smoother and creamier, with most of the husk removed. Both are roasted first, since raw perilla seed tastes flat.

Its signature use is in tang and stews. A few spoonfuls thicken and enrich broths such as perilla soup with taro stems or mushrooms, loach soup (chueotang), dumpling soups and perilla sujebi, and they soften the bite of pork and duck dishes. In namul, perilla powder is tossed with braised dried vegetables such as gosari, taro stems and siraegi along with a splash of perilla oil, and it is a common addition to soups for new mothers. The agrifood service suggests roasting and grinding small amounts as needed, since the powder loses its aroma over time.

• Plant omega-3: Perilla seeds are one of the richest plant sources of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA). The Korean Food Composition Table lists roasted perilla seed at about 24 g ALA, 36 g fat and 22 g fiber per 100 g (530 kcal). It does not list perilla powder separately, and hulled powders will have less fiber.
• Minerals: The same entry lists roasted seed as a source of calcium (about 416 mg), magnesium (315 mg), iron (7.5 mg) and zinc (6.8 mg) per 100 g. A spoonful in soup contributes a modest share.
• Energy-dense: Like other seeds, perilla powder is high in calories, so generous scoops add up in a stew.
• Allergy: Perilla seed can cause immediate allergic reactions. A Korean study of 21 children with perilla seed allergy found that nearly 29 percent had experienced anaphylaxis. Families managing seed allergies should check soups, namul and porridges.
• Freshness: The unsaturated fats that make perilla valuable also oxidize quickly; buy small packages, keep the powder airtight and refrigerated or frozen, and discard it if it smells rancid.