Soju (Korean Distilled Spirit)

Distilling reached Korea from the Mongol Yuan empire in the late Goryeo period. The Encyclopedia of Korean Culture links the old names arak-ju in Gaeseong and arang-ju in North Pyeongan to the Arabic araq, and notes that Gaeseong, Andong and Jeju, where Mongol forces were based, became famous for soju. The Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture counts eighteen Joseon texts with soju recipes, from the early Sanga yorok onward. It was made by fermenting rice or other grains with nuruk and boiling the mash under a still (sojugori), so the spirit dripped down 'like dew,' hence the alternative name noju (dew wine).

At first it was a medicine and a luxury. The encyclopedia cites the Jibong yuseol, which says soju was drunk from small cups because it was taken as medicine, the origin of the small soju-jan. By the mid-Joseon period it was common enough that officials complained about the rice it consumed. The modern shift began under Japanese rule, when machine distilleries opened from 1919. Then, in 1965, a government ban on using grain for liquor ended rice soju almost entirely. Diluted soju took its place: neutral alcohol distilled to 85 percent or more from molasses, sweet potato or tapioca, cut with water and flavored with sweeteners and other additives. Rice-based distilled soju, such as Andong soju, has since returned as a craft and heritage drink. See traditional liquor.

In the kitchen, strong soju is the base for honseongju, liqueurs made by sealing fruit or herbs in spirit for months; maesil-ju from green plums is a classic. Home cooks also add a splash to marinades and fish dishes to cut strong odors. At the table, diluted soju is the standard partner for grilled meat, stews and anju. See drinking culture.

• It is alcohol: Soju is an alcoholic drink, and none of its uses make it a health food. The National Cancer Institute notes that alcohol is classified as a known human carcinogen, and that risk rises with the amount consumed; even light drinkers can face higher risk of some cancers.
• US guidance: The NCI summarizes the Dietary Guidelines for Americans: people who do not drink should not start, and adults who drink should limit intake to two drinks or less a day for men and one or less for women.
• Who should avoid it: People who are pregnant, under the legal drinking age, taking medicines that interact with alcohol, or recovering from alcohol use disorder.