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Ingredient

Yellow croaker (jogi)

조기

Romanization: jogi

A golden-skinned West Sea fish, prized above all as gulbi: whole croakers salted and air-dried, a specialty of Yeonggwang. Gulbi was once sent as tribute to the court and is still a prized gift.

Flavor

Fresh croaker is tender, sweet and mildly rich; gulbi is firmer and saltier, with a concentrated, savory flavor and crisp skin when grilled.

Origin & History

Jogi is the umbrella name for several croakers in the drum family. The most prized is cham-jogi, the small yellow croaker, about 30 cm long with a grayish-gold body and a reddish mouth. Its relatives include the white bogu-chi, the yellow-red sujogi and the larger buse. Cham-jogi spends the winter in warmer water south-west of Jeju and swims north in spring to spawn, passing the Chilsan sea off Yeonggwang in late March to mid-April and Yeonpyeong Island by May. Shoals are famous for croaking loudly enough to bother fishermen nearby.

Croaker fishing is very old. The 15th-century Sejong sillok geography describes fleets gathering off Yeonggwang each spring to net croaker under a government tax, with floating fish markets (pasi) forming around the catch, and the encyclopedia notes the fish was so abundant it was nicknamed "the pollock of Jeolla." Later texts derive the name jogi from Chinese jongeo, and one gives it the folk meaning "helping vital energy." Catches surged when Japanese-style stow nets arrived in the late 19th century, but overfishing has since made cham-jogi scarce and expensive.

Because the catch came in during warm, humid weather, Koreans preserved it by salting and drying, and the result, gulbi, became famous. In the traditional Yeonggwang method each fish is salted and pressed under stones for three days, then strung ten to a bundle (dureum) and dried in the sea wind for one to two weeks. Croakers caught just before spawning around Gogu (late April) are rated the finest. A well-known tale, recorded in the Encyclopedia of Korean Culture as one theory among several, links the name to Yi Ja-gyeom, exiled to Yeonggwang in 1126. Croaker was also salted as jeot, and the Korean Food Composition Table lists salted jogi-jeot alongside fresh croaker and gulbi.

Nutrition

per 100 g, raw small yellow croaker (Korean Food Composition Table: 조기(참조기), 생것 / Yellow croaker, Raw)
Calories118 kcal
Protein19.02 g
Fat4.04 g
Carbohydrates0 g
Fiber0 g
Sodium51 mg

Notable forVitamin D (8.42 µg) · Potassium (329 mg) · Phosphorus (158 mg)

Values copied from the Korean Food Composition Table (Rural Development Administration / National Institute of Crop Science) for this exact food, per 100 g edible portion. Salted, dried gulbi in the same table lists about 332 kcal, 44.4 g protein, 15.2 g fat and 412 mg sodium per 100 g; salt levels vary with how long and how heavily the fish was cured. Actual values vary with ingredients, portion size and preparation.

Health Benefits

  • Protein and vitamin D: Raw cham-jogi supplies about 19 g of protein and, per the Korean Food Composition Table, about 8 µg of vitamin D per 100 g.
  • Mercury: The FDA/EPA chart does not list yellow croaker by name. It rates Atlantic croaker a "Best Choice" and white (Pacific) croaker a "Good Choice"; pregnant and breastfeeding readers can use those as a rough guide.
  • Fish allergy: Fish is one of the nine major food allergens under U.S. law; jogi-jeot and other salted fish products contain it too.
  • Salted forms: Gulbi and jogi-jeot are salt-preserved. Plain rice and vegetables balance them well.

Informational, not medical advice. Talk to a qualified professional about your own health and diet.