Chogochujang (Vinegared Chili Paste)

The cho in the name is vinegar (cho, 醋), so chogochujang is simply ‘vinegared gochujang.’ It belongs to the family of dipping sauces for hoe, Korean dishes of raw or lightly blanched fish, meat and vegetables. The Encyclopedia of Korean Culture notes that chogochujang is now the most common dipping sauce for hoe, but that before chili peppers spread, mustard sauce (gyeoja-jang) filled that role; vinegared soy sauce (chojang) is another old partner.

Joseon cookbooks show the shift. The encyclopedia quotes the late-Joseon Siuijeonseo on raw croaker (minyeo) sliced thin and served with mustard and chogochujang to taste, and describes young dureup shoots blanched briefly in spring and dipped in chogochujang. The same entry divides hoe into raw saenghoe and cooked sukhoe, the latter including blanched vegetables such as dureup, and it is these crisp, mild foods that chogochujang suits best.

At home it is mixed fresh by the spoonful, typically gochujang with vinegar and sugar or syrup, sometimes with minced garlic, sesame seeds or a little citrus juice. It goes with raw fish, blanched squid and octopus, boiled shellfish and dureup, and it doubles as the dressing for sharp, spicy muchim and as a sauce for mixed rice bowls topped with raw fish.

• Lean pairings: Chogochujang is mostly eaten with raw or blanched fish, shellfish and vegetables, foods that are low in fat on their own.
• Sugar: It is sweeter than it tastes. The Korean Food Composition Table lists about 36 g of total sugars per 100 g, so generous dipping adds up.
• Sodium: About 2,000 mg of sodium per 100 g in the same table. Vinegar's acidity makes a little go far, which can help keep portions small.
• Allergens: Gochujang-based sauces often contain wheat as well as soy; check labels if you avoid either.
• Raw seafood safety: The sauce does not make raw fish or shellfish safe. Vinegar at table strength does not reliably kill parasites or bacteria, so buy seafood meant for raw eating from trusted sources.